It’s obvious, but food trucks literally serve street food. So it makes sense that the menu of the Tepex Central Mexican Cuisine mobile kitchen focuses on the (mostly) hand-held dishes found on street corners in Mexico.
At first glance, the whiteboard only lists a handful of offers. Thus, the emphasis here is on specialization and not on quantity. Included are tacos, quesabirrias, quesadillas, and a Mexican dip (a spin south of the border on a French dip sandwich).
Tepex food truck (locations vary) ‘Carnitas Tacos’ Thursday July 13, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
Chicken, carnitas, birria (braised beef) and beef cheeks are the filling options for the tacos. We go with the carnitas ($14). Our order includes four. They’re plump with slow-cooked pulled pork, topped with pickled onions and chopped cilantro. The meat is tender, juicy and lightly seasoned. The salsa, served on the side, provides the right amount of spice, allowing the pork to remain the dominant flavor.
Orders include salsa and esquites (corn), which are a treat. The corn kernels are coated in a mayonnaise-based sauce and topped with chili powder. Although these require a spoon or fork, they are still considered traditional Mexican street food. (On the other hand, elotes are similar but the corn is still on the cob, which makes it much easier to eat while walking around).
Tepex food truck (locations vary) ‘Birria Sandwich’ Thursday July 13, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
The Mexican dip ($14) is shredded beef wrapped in a French roll. There’s even a dip of the chilli-infused broth in which the meat has been braised. The beef is succulent and is barely contained in the sliced roll. There are more pickled onions, which add color and a slight spiciness.
Poblano peppers, sliced mushrooms, tomatoes and Brussels sprouts are piled into a flour tortilla with cheese for the vegetarian quesadilla ($12). The tortilla is slightly crispy from its time on the stovetop and the cheese oozes out of the triangle-cut pieces. The poblano brings a subtle spicy element to the vegetable combination.
Although we didn’t taste the quesabirria, it is the carnivorous version of the above but stuffed with braised beef instead of the vegetables.
Tepex food truck (locations vary) Thursday July 13, 2023. Photo by Jeff Kearney.
After orders are placed, customers are given a small pager so they can hang out at any brewery or place the truck might be parked in front of, or sit in their car if the weather gets torrential. Because there was no one around the truck, we had no idea how many orders were waiting for us. Apparently there were several. Tacos may look like fast food, but at Tepex, that’s not the case. Even though we waited longer than expected, our expectations were exceeded.
The staff is friendly and helpful. The truck, which is black except for the Tepex name, belies the vibrant flavors created by its chef.
Tepex publishes its schedule on its Facebook page. He’s usually on the road Tuesday through Saturday and seems to follow a consistent list of daily locations. We found it parked outside Goat Patch Brewing Co. at 2727 N. Cascade Ave., where it sits most Wednesdays.
Tepex Central Mexican Cuisine (food truck)
Mexican street food
Location: Varied; check the Tepex Facebook page
Contact: 1-719-761-6344; tepexbyfernando.com
Prices: $12 to $15
Hours: Varies by location.
Details: Credit cards accepted.
Favourite dishes : Tacos carnitas and Mexican dip
Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.
